Key Takeaways:
For centuries, Paris has functioned as the symbolic and commercial epicenter of global perfumery, its authority rooted in institutions, heritage maisons, and a supply chain infrastructure that has historically defined what luxury fragrance looks and smells like. Yet while African raw materials such as jasmine, vanilla, frankincense, and pepper have long been rooted within the foundations of modern perfumery, authorship has rarely followed origin.
Today, through the help of the creative cultural agency, The Colors, a new generation of Black fragrance founders is challenging that imbalance, entering Paris not simply as participants, but as narrative owners, reshaping how olfactory heritage is understood and valued. Their arrival, announced through Paris Perfume Week, reflects a broader decentralization of luxury authority, as digital distribution, niche fragrance communities, and shifting consumer values continue to expand where influence is produced. Paris remains an important gatekeeper, but it is no longer the only one.
For these founders, entering the French market is symbolic and a statement of parity within an industry that has often defined excellence through European lineage. At the same time, their presence underpins an industry shift in which multicultural narratives are no longer peripheral to luxury but central to its evolution. Their ambitions extend beyond retail presence to reframing how fragrance history itself is told. Meet them:
Tanal Ghandour, Founder, Scent of Africa
For Tanal Ghandour, entering Paris represents an opportunity to reposition Africa as both a source of raw materials and as a creative authority within fine fragrance. “On a symbolic level, it’s really about taking our place in an industry that has historically been defined by Europe, and especially France,” Ghandour explained to BeautyMatter. “Africa has long been present in perfumery through its raw materials: Madagascan black pepper and vanilla, Somali incense, Egyptian jasmine, Moroccan cedarwood, among others. What has been missing is Africa as the author of its own story.”
Commercially, the brand views Paris as a strategic concentration of industry influence, from retailers to media to distributors. “Paris remains one of the most important fragrance markets. It’s where trends are shaped, and where you have access to a very knowledgeable audience, as well as key players in the industry,” Ghandour said. Recent collaborations, including a partnership with Maxhosa during Paris Fashion Week, signal the growing alignment among African luxury brands in building global visibility across disciplines.
Despite momentum, Ghandour acknowledges the structural realities of entering a relationship-driven market. “Entering a market like Paris requires real investment, not just in retail, but also in marketing and visibility; the kind of presence that signals you are here to stay.” Credibility, he noted, often requires additional effort for African brands, though he believes quality ultimately shifts perception. “As a brand from Africa, we sometimes have to work a little harder to establish credibility upfront. Once someone experiences the quality and understands the depth of our storytelling, the conversation changes.”
Looking ahead, Ghandour sees Paris as influential but no longer singular. “Paris will remain influential. The history, the institutions, the expertise that lives there is not going anywhere. But it will no longer be the only place where the future of fragrance is decided.”
Samira Mbang, Founder & CEO, House of Iyrah
For Samira Mbang, Paris represents both validation and amplification. “Paris is the world’s highest stage for perfumery,” she said to BeautyMatter. “For House of Iyrah, entering this market is a declaration that our craft, our culture, and our vision belong in the most important fragrance conversation in the world.”
Yet the path to that stage remains complex. “Structurally, breaking into a market with centuries of established houses and deeply entrenched distribution networks is not easy,” she opened up. “Financially, Paris demands a premium—the cost of showing up correctly in this market is significant.” Relationship building remains ongoing, particularly in securing stockists aligned with the brand’s positioning.
Navigating the industry as a Black founder requires resilience and strategic clarity. “Access isn’t given, it is earned. We are intentional about who we approach, always leading with the quality of our work and the clarity of our vision.” Rather than seeking validation, Mbang framed difference as an advantage. “Being a Black perfumer in this space means you are often the first—the first in the room, the first they’ve considered, sometimes the first they’ve truly seen. We choose to make that a strength; our difference is our distinction.”
Her view of fragrance’s future mirrors a broader pivot in luxury consumption. “The epicenter is shifting from a city to a standard. And that standard is craft, storytelling, and identity.”
Teri Johnson, Founder, Harlem Perfume Co.
Teri Johnson’s relationship with Paris is rooted in cultural history as much as commercial strategy. Her brand draws inspiration from the Harlem Renaissance figures whose creative legacies intersected with the French capital. “My love and reverence for the Harlem Renaissance was born in Paris,” she explained to BeautyMatter. “It was in Paris that I truly came to understand the magnitude of Josephine Baker’s legacy and discovered the profound influence that so many Harlem Renaissance icons had on European arts, culture, and music.”
That connection shaped the foundation of Harlem Perfume Co.’s narrative positioning. “Most of our perfumers are French women who have a natural, almost intuitive relationship with the icons we celebrate,” Johnson noted, highlighting the cross-cultural dialogue embedded within the brand’s creative process.
Expansion into France remains measured and relationship led. “We are seeking the right distribution partners, key press coverage, and store alignment, which all take time to build.” Johnson emphasized the importance of industry fluency developed through her earlier ventures, including Harlem Candle Company, which helped establish relationships with fragrance houses and perfumers prior to launching the perfume brand.
For Johnson, long-term success involves cultural integration rather than simple market entry. “I would love to see the brand woven into the cultural fabric of Paris, a city that has always understood the intersection of art, culture, and legacy.”
Chris Collins, Founder, World of Chris Collins
Chris Collins’ brand narrative is rooted in the historical relationship between Harlem and Paris during the 1920s, an era in which Black artists found creative freedom in Europe. “When I first launched in 2018, I told the story of Harlem's connection to Paris in the 1920s through my first collection of fragrances,” Collins explained to BeautyMatter. “That resonated very well with the fragrance community across France.”
For Collins, long-term ambition is anchored in physical retail presence within the city’s luxury landscape. “Ultimately, my dream is to one day open my own fragrance boutique on the famous Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris.” Yet he acknowledges the structural challenges associated with entering a heritage-driven market. “With all the heritage brands from Paris dating back to the late 1800s, it is not the easiest place for new niche brands to succeed.”
As one of the first Black-owned luxury perfume brands to enter the industry, Collins positions storytelling as a strategic differentiator. “I can only control what I can control. And that is to create beautiful fragrances and tell incredible stories through them.”
While he believes Paris will remain central to luxury fragrance, he also advocates for broader cultural inclusion. “Paris is the epitome of luxury. That said, [it] should always be open to other perspectives and cultures of fragrance.”
Matthew Sanchez, Founder, Matteo Parfums
Matthew Sanchez sees Paris as both validation and opportunity for emerging brands redefining fragrance heritage. “If you can sell and succeed in Paris, you can sell and succeed anywhere,” he noted, framing entry into the market as a credibility marker for niche brands seeking global recognition.
Yet operational complexity remains a key challenge. “Shipping overseas is expensive. Materials are expensive,” Sanchez explained, pointing to the financial realities facing independent fragrance founders navigating international logistics and distribution. Understanding cultural scent preferences also plays a critical role in market expansion strategy, particularly when balancing authenticity with global appeal.
As an Afro-Latino founder, Sanchez describes the industry as both challenging and formative. “Not coming from a fragrance family has meant everything I’ve learned has been hands-on, dirty and unsexy, and aggravating.” Despite barriers, he credited perseverance and adaptability as drivers of brand longevity.
Looking ahead, Sanchez anticipates a multipolar fragrance landscape. “I foresee different locations being seen as fragrance capitals for different purposes,” he explained, positioning Los Angeles as a hub for contemporary niche innovation, while Paris maintains leadership in heritage perfumery.
Yusif Meizongo, Founder, Maison Yusif
For Yusif Meizongo, entering Paris represents validation of African creative capability on a global stage. “Coming from Ghana, it shows that what we are building is real and can stand anywhere in the world,” he said, highlighting the symbolic importance of presenting African fragrance narratives within traditional centers of industry authority.
Financial and logistical barriers remain significant considerations. “Everything in Paris is very expensive. [Also], moving perfumes internationally is not easy because of regulations.” Relationship-building is similarly gradual, particularly within an ecosystem historically centered on European heritage brands.
Despite structural challenges, Meizongo positions African perfumery as a source of creative richness. “African perfumers are geniuses; we are open to more scents, which makes our creative palette broader.” His approach emphasizes consistency and physical presence as mechanisms for building trust and visibility within the market.
Looking forward, Meizongo sees global consumer appetite shifting toward narrative-driven fragrance experiences. “The consumer wants a story, an emotion, a feeling. The power is slowly spreading, and we are part of that new wave.”
As luxury fragrance continues to evolve, the significance of Black perfumers entering Paris extends beyond representation alone. It highlights a structural shift in how credibility, creativity, and cultural authority are constructed within the category. While Paris remains a powerful validator, it may no longer be the sole arbiter of influence. Instead, a more pluralistic fragrance landscape is growing—one in which narrative depth, global perspective, and cultural specificity are increasingly recognized as drivers of long-term brand value. For these founders, presence in Paris is not the end goal, but part of a broader strategy to redefine who shapes the future of fine fragrance, and from where.